PFAS — per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances — are found in everyday clothing at levels thousands of times over EU safety limits. They don't break down. In the environment, or in you. Here's what the science says.
of clothes tested found to contain toxic chemicals (Euronews, July 2026)
over EU safety limits — PFAS levels found in some tested jackets
synthetic chemicals used in global textile manufacturing
The chemicals that never leave
PFAS stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances. There are over 12,000 of them. They are called "forever chemicals" for a specific reason: the carbon-fluorine bond at their core is one of the strongest in chemistry. It does not break down in water. It does not break down in soil. It does not break down in the human body. What goes in, largely stays in.
They were developed in the mid-twentieth century for their remarkable ability to repel water, oil, and heat. Industry adopted them enthusiastically — in non-stick cookware, food packaging, firefighting foam, and clothing. Waterproof jackets, stain-resistant trousers, wrinkle-free shirts, activewear. Anywhere a performance claim needed chemical backing, PFAS were the answer.
The problem is that the same persistence that makes them useful makes them dangerous. They accumulate. In the environment, in wildlife, and in human tissue — detectable in the blood of people who have never worked in a factory or worn waterproof clothing in their lives, because PFAS have contaminated groundwater and food systems at a scale that is still being mapped.
"PFAS found in tested garments at over 3,000 times the EU safety limit. These are not performance jackets. Some were everyday children's clothing." — Euronews investigation, July 2026
The health picture so far
The science on PFAS is still developing, which the industry uses to argue for patience. But patience is not the same as ignorance. What researchers have documented to date is significant enough to warrant attention now.
Studies link PFAS exposure to disruption of the endocrine system — the network of glands and hormones that regulates growth, metabolism, reproduction, and mood. They have been associated with reduced fertility in both men and women, immune system suppression, thyroid dysfunction, elevated cholesterol, and increased risk of certain cancers, including kidney and testicular cancer.
Clothing is a particularly direct exposure route. Your skin is the largest organ in your body. It is in contact with your clothes for most of your waking hours — and the contact intensifies under heat and sweat, both of which increase the transfer of chemicals from fabric to skin. Unlike contaminated food or water, clothing sits directly against your body. For hours. Every day. It is why the fabric choice matters — and why what you put on first thing in the morning deserves more scrutiny than most of us give it.
DWR (durable water repellent) coatings applied to outerwear, rainwear, and performance jackets are one of the most common sources of PFAS in clothing.
Moisture-wicking, quick-dry, and stain-resistant treatments used in gym wear and sports clothing frequently rely on PFAS chemistry. Worn tight to the body during heat and sweat — the conditions that maximise skin absorption.
Wrinkle-free and crease-resistant finishes — common in dress shirts, trousers, and workwear — often use PFAS alongside formaldehyde-based resins.
Ultra-cheap garments from platforms like Shein and Temu have been found to contain PFAS at extreme levels — the July 2026 Euronews investigation found some children's items far above EU limits.
Why this is still happening
The European Union has moved faster than most on PFAS regulation. The EU's REACH regulation restricts certain PFAS compounds in textiles, and limits are being tightened. But the speed of regulatory change has not kept pace with the volume and variety of chemicals in use — there are over 12,000 PFAS compounds, and they are not all regulated equally.
The enforcement gap is equally significant. Over 5.8 million low-value e-commerce parcels enter the EU every day. Testing capacity is nowhere near sufficient to screen them all. Brands that manufacture in jurisdictions with lower standards, sell online to customers in higher-standard markets, and face limited consequence. The result is a market where compliant and non-compliant products sit side by side, with no visible signal to the consumer about which is which.
The label tells you almost nothing useful. "Water resistant" does not tell you how that resistance was achieved. "Performance fabric" tells you nothing about the chemistry behind the performance. Transparency is not yet a legal requirement in most markets, which means consumers are making decisions without information. The only reliable shortcut is to choose brands that have made the material decision simple — organic cotton, made to order, no hidden chemistry.
"The label tells you almost nothing useful. 'Water resistant' does not tell you how that resistance was achieved."
Starting from a cleaner place
Organic cotton does not solve the PFAS problem entirely on its own — but it does change the starting point significantly, and certification closes the gap further.
Conventional cotton is one of the most chemically intensive crops on earth. Pesticides, herbicides, synthetic fertilisers, and defoliants are used across most of the world's cotton supply. Those residues enter the fibre before it is even spun. Organic cotton begins without that chemical load.
Certification takes it further. The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) covers not just how the cotton is grown, but the entire supply chain through to the finished garment — including restrictions on chemical treatments, synthetic dyes, and finishing agents. PFAS are prohibited under GOTS. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 tests finished garments for over 100 harmful substances, with updated PFAS limits coming into effect in 2026.
Neither certification is perfect, and neither covers every scenario. But they represent a meaningful, independently audited commitment that a garment has been made with the intention of minimising chemical harm — rather than maximising performance claims.
Every BoKa garment is made from 100% certified organic cotton, 180gsm, made to order. We choose organic cotton because what sits against your skin all day deserves the same level of scrutiny as what you put in your body. We make each piece only once it is ordered — no surplus inventory, no warehouses of unsold stock waiting to be discounted, and no incentive to cut corners on materials to protect a margin.
Made to order. Organic cotton. Zero compromise.
Every BoKa tee is 100% certified organic cotton, 180gsm — made only once you order it, in collaboration with an emerging artist around a cause that matters. No PFAS. No surplus. No shortcuts.
Shop the collection →What are PFAS chemicals in clothing?
PFAS (per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are a group of over 12,000 synthetic chemicals used in clothing for water-repellent, stain-resistant, and wrinkle-free finishes. They are called "forever chemicals" because they do not break down in the environment or the human body, and have been linked to hormone disruption, immune system damage, and increased cancer risk.
Are PFAS chemicals dangerous in clothes?
Research and regulatory investigations have found PFAS in clothing at levels thousands of times over EU safety limits. Because textiles are in prolonged contact with skin — especially during heat and sweat — absorption is a documented concern. Studies link PFAS exposure to reduced fertility, hormone disruption, and immune system damage.
Does organic cotton contain PFAS?
Certified organic cotton processed under GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification prohibits PFAS and other harmful chemical treatments throughout the supply chain. OEKO-TEX Standard 100 also tests finished garments for harmful substances including PFAS. These certifications go beyond simply growing without pesticides — they cover the entire production process.
Which clothes are most likely to contain PFAS?
PFAS are most commonly found in waterproof and water-resistant outerwear, activewear, wrinkle-resistant clothing, and ultra-cheap fast fashion garments. Investigations have found PFAS in children's clothing and everyday garments far beyond performance wear.
With love,
BoKa
Euronews (July 2026), "Fast fashion: 69% of our clothes contain toxic chemicals." Moonchild Sleep (June 2026), "Do Textiles Contain Harmful Toxins? 2026 Guide to Toxic Chemicals." BEUC (June 2025), investigation into hazardous chemicals in children's products. Greenpeace textile testing data, phthalate and PFAS findings. MDPI/Preprints.org (2025), "The Health Impact of Fast Fashion: Exploring Toxic Chemicals in Clothing and Textiles." GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard) certification criteria, 2026 edition. OEKO-TEX Standard 100, updated PFAS limits 2026. EU REACH regulation, textile chemical restrictions. This article reflects published research and investigation as of July 2026 and will be updated as the science develops.
Organic cotton.
Made to order.
Nothing hidden.
Every BoKa garment — 100% certified organic cotton, zero PFAS, made only once you order it. Shop the collection.
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